LEARN HOW TO: work in the round, decrease, do stranded colorwork
YOU SHOULD ALREADY KNOW HOW TO: cast on, knit stitch, purl stitch, bind off, and block the finished object
Any super bulky weight yarn.
We recommend Cedar House Windfall Super Bulky or Erika Knight Maxi Wool.
You will need 2 colors (for the yarns above, 1 skein of each color):
Main color “mc” - you will need at least 70 m/76 yds of the main color
Contrasting color “cc” - you will need at least 40 m/43 yds of the contrasting color
Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS:
Size 9 mm (US size 13) double-pointed needles
Tapestry needle for sewing in the ends
10.75 stitches to 10 cm/4" in stockinette stitch
For all abbreviations, please check the glossary at the end of the pattern.
You will be knitting this hat in the round, so there will not be a seam.
Using mc, make a slipknot. To learn to make a slip knot, CLICK HERE
Using the knitted co and mc, co 48 stitches. To learn to cast on, CLICK HERE
As you cast on stitches, distribute stitches evenly onto 4 double-pointed needles (12 stitches on each needle). To learn how to use double pointed needles CLICK HERE
Working in the Round and Stitch Markers
Stitch markers are a useful way to keep track of the beginning of each round. They are placed on your needle & slipped as you work. They move with your knitting and will not end up in your final project. In this project, a stitch marker is used to mark the start of the round. Since you are working with double-pointed needles, it’s easiest to place it one stitch into the new row. The first stitch on the needle remains the beginning of the round. Being one stitch off won’t affect the pattern at all. CLICK HERE to see a tutorial about working in the round and using stitch markers.
Join ends to work in the round. pm.
Rounds 1-3: Work k2, p2 ribbing in mc.
Using Different Colors for Each Round
In this pattern, you will be using two colors to knit the pattern, but there are some rounds in which you are only using one color. What should you do with the color you aren’t using? If you won’t be using a color for an entire round, you can simply allow it to hang to the back of the work at the beginning of that round. You should just double-check that you aren’t accidentally carrying it along the back of your work (because it keeps getting twisted around the yarn that you are using for the round). CLICK HERE to see a video tutorial of this process.
Learning to Knit with Multiple Colors in the Same Round:
Knitting with multiple colors in the same round is often referred to as “Fair Isle knitting” or “stranded colorwork.” The chart below shows you when to switch between colors. When you are switching between colors, allow the unused color to hang to the back of your work. We recommend you watch our online tutorial about using multiple colors in a stranded pattern. CLICK HERE to see a tutorial about this.
When you are working in stranded knitting, you will leave a length of yarn between the colors at the back of your work. For example, look at the 8th row of the chart below. You work the 4th and 6th stitches in cc. Then you work 3 stitches in mc, and the 10th stitch in cc again. When you look at the back of your work, you will see a length of cc running between the 6th and 10th stitches. This is called a “float” because the yarn is not being used and is “floating” before being worked again. When knitting with multiple colors, be careful not to pull the yarn tightly when it isn’t being used. It should skim along the back of the work-no gap but not too tight. When you’re learning, it’s usually best to allow a little more length for the float than you think you need. As you gain experience, you’ll get a feel for how much slack you need; if it’s too tight, your knitting will pucker. CLICK HERE for a video tutorial.
Reading a Stitch Chart
When following the color chart below:
Work all Rounds 1 through 29 of the chart, repeating stitches 13 to 18 until 6 stitches remain in the round. Work the final 6 stitches of the chart. Continue for all rounds of the chart.
The Color Chart:
After following the entire chart, you will have 8 stitches remaining. Cut both the mc and the cc, leaving a 10” tail of both.
Using a tapestry needle threaded with the tail of the mc, run the needle and yarn through the remaining 8 stitches, taking the stitches off the needles in the process. Pull the stitches tight to create the top closure of the hat.
Weave in all yarn ends using a tapestry needle. CLICK HERE for a video tutorial.
Finally, you may want to “block” the hat. This means that you wet the yarn and relax it a little bit, which will also help to even out your stitches. Because you’re knitting with wool, the yarn will stretch, so you should gently lay it out without stretching it too much, keeping it in the final shape.
How do I block?
Let the hat soak in cool water for around 30 minutes. Gently drain the water. You can gently roll the hat in a towel to remove excess water, or you can let it sit in the sink and drain for an hour or so. Make sure that you handle the wet fabric gently and don’t wring it out. Once you have removed the excess water, lay the hat out on fresh towels or on a blocking board (you need a surface that will allow the water to drain from the wool), and arrange it in the shape of a hat, keeping the rows even. Let it dry before picking it up again. CLICK HERE for a video tutorial.
Once it is dry, you are done. Stand back and admire your work. You have worked stranded knitting.
cc: contrasting color
co: cast on
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together by inserting right-hand needle through next 2 stitches on left-hand needle, and knit them together as though they were one stitch.
mc: main color
pm: place marker